:root {
  --paper: #f7f5f0;
  --ink: #2d302b;
  --muted: #6b6a5e;
  --rule: #d0ccbe;
  --accent: #a33d1d;
  --serif: "Newsreader", Georgia, serif;
  --sans: "Archivo", Arial, sans-serif;
  color-scheme: light;
}
* {
  box-sizing: border-box;
}
html {
  scroll-behavior: smooth;
  scrollbar-color: #b3ad9d var(--paper);
}
body {
  margin: 0;
  background: var(--paper);
  color: var(--ink);
  font-family: var(--sans);
  font-size: 15px;
  line-height: 1.6;
  -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased;
}
::selection {
  background: #e7cdb7;
  color: #282e28;
}
a {
  color: inherit;
  text-underline-offset: 4px;
}
button,
a {
  -webkit-tap-highlight-color: #e8dccd;
}
button {
  font: inherit;
}
button,
a,
summary {
  touch-action: manipulation;
}
button {
  cursor: pointer;
}
a:focus-visible,
button:focus-visible,
summary:focus-visible {
  outline: 2px solid var(--accent);
  outline-offset: 5px;
}
button:disabled {
  opacity: 0.5;
  cursor: default;
}
svg {
  display: block;
}
h1,
h2,
h3,
p {
  margin: 0;
}
h1,
h2,
h3 {
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-weight: 400;
  text-wrap: balance;
}
p {
  overflow-wrap: break-word;
}
.sheet {
  max-width: 1600px;
  margin: auto;
  padding: 32px 42px 20px;
}
.masthead {
  display: flex;
  justify-content: space-between;
  align-items: flex-end;
  gap: 30px;
  padding-bottom: 22px;
  border-bottom: 1px solid #5b5c52;
}
.edition {
  text-transform: uppercase;
  letter-spacing: 0.18em;
  font-size: 12px;
  margin-bottom: 14px;
}
.masthead h1 {
  font-size: clamp(40px, 5.5vw, 83px);
  letter-spacing: -0.028em;
  line-height: 1.04;
}
.trip-dates {
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-size: 20px;
  white-space: nowrap;
  text-align: right;
  line-height: 1.55;
  padding-bottom: 5px;
}
.trip-dates span {
  display: block;
}
.day-nav {
  display: flex;
  gap: 4px;
  justify-content: space-between;
  overflow-x: auto;
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule);
  scrollbar-width: thin;
  margin-bottom: 22px;
}
.day-nav a {
  white-space: nowrap;
  text-decoration: none;
  padding: 15px 18px 13px;
  font-size: 14px;
  border-bottom: 3px solid transparent;
}
.day-nav a:first-child {
  padding-left: 10px;
}
.day-nav a[aria-current="page"] {
  border-bottom-color: var(--accent);
  color: var(--accent);
}
.day-nav a:hover {
  background: #eeeae0;
}
.atlas {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1.13fr) minmax(0, 0.94fr);
  gap: 28px;
  align-items: start;
}
.map-column {
  min-width: 0;
}
.map-surface {
  overflow: hidden;
  border: 1px solid #cccbbc;
  background: #eeeee3;
}
.map-surface > svg {
  width: 100%;
  height: auto;
}
.map-pin {
  cursor: pointer;
}
.place-label {
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-size: 16px;
  fill: #3f4539;
  paint-order: stroke;
  stroke: #f1f0e5;
  stroke-width: 3px;
  stroke-linejoin: round;
}
.map-pin.quiet .place-label {
  fill: #747568;
  font-size: 14px;
}
.map-pin.quiet > circle {
  opacity: 0.65;
}
.map-pin.selected .place-label,
.map-pin.base .place-label {
  font-size: 20px;
  fill: #263129;
}
.map-pin:hover .place-label,
.map-pin:focus-visible .place-label {
  fill: var(--accent);
}
.map-pin:hover circle:last-of-type,
.map-pin:focus-visible circle:last-of-type {
  fill: var(--accent);
}
.map-pin:focus-visible {
  outline: none;
}
.map-pin:focus-visible circle:first-child {
  stroke: var(--accent);
  stroke-width: 2;
  stroke-dasharray: 3 3;
}
.geographic-label {
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-size: 18px;
  font-style: italic;
  fill: #737b64;
  letter-spacing: 0.03em;
}
.river-label {
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-style: italic;
  font-size: 17px;
  fill: #527981;
}
.compass-label {
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-size: 15px;
  fill: #535b4f;
}
.locator-label {
  font-family: var(--sans);
  font-size: 7px;
  letter-spacing: 1px;
  fill: #555a4d;
}
.inset-label {
  font-family: var(--sans);
  font-size: 9px;
  letter-spacing: 1px;
  fill: #625e53;
}
.map-inset:hover rect {
  fill: #ede7d8;
}
.trip-route {
  stroke-dasharray: 1800;
  animation: trace-route 0.8s ease-out both;
}
.day-summary {
  padding: 20px 21px 14px;
  border: 1px solid var(--rule);
  border-top: 0;
}
.day-summary h2 {
  font-size: 26px;
  line-height: 1.2;
}
.day-summary h2 em {
  color: var(--accent);
  font-weight: 400;
}
.day-summary p {
  font-size: 13px;
  color: var(--muted);
  line-height: 1.7;
  margin-top: 8px;
  max-width: 63ch;
}
.stops {
  padding: 0 21px 8px;
  border: 1px solid var(--rule);
  border-top: 0;
}
.stop-link {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: 23px 1fr auto;
  align-items: baseline;
  gap: 10px;
  text-decoration: none;
  border-top: 1px solid #ddd8cd;
  padding: 11px 0;
  font-size: 13px;
}
.stop-number {
  color: var(--accent);
  font-variant-numeric: tabular-nums;
}
.stop-name {
  font-weight: 500;
}
.stop-link[aria-current="location"] .stop-name {
  color: var(--accent);
}
.stop-link:hover .stop-name {
  text-decoration: underline;
  text-underline-offset: 4px;
}
.stop-time {
  font-size: 11px;
  color: var(--muted);
  text-align: right;
}
.optional-label {
  font-size: 9px;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  letter-spacing: 0.08em;
  border: 1px solid #bab4a2;
  padding: 2px 5px;
  margin-left: 8px;
  font-weight: 400;
  white-space: nowrap;
}
.whole-day {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: 53px 1fr;
  gap: 8px;
  font-size: 13px;
  padding: 11px 0;
  border-top: 1px solid #ddd8cd;
  text-decoration: none;
}
.whole-day > span:first-child {
  color: var(--accent);
}
.whole-day:hover > span:last-child {
  text-decoration: underline;
  text-underline-offset: 4px;
}
.map-note {
  font-size: 10px;
  color: var(--muted);
  margin: 10px 0;
  display: flex;
  flex-wrap: wrap;
  justify-content: space-between;
  gap: 2px 12px;
}
.story {
  min-width: 0;
  outline: none;
}
.story figure {
  margin: 0;
}
.story-photo {
  width: 100%;
  height: auto;
  aspect-ratio: 1.83;
  object-fit: cover;
  background: #e7e4d8;
}
.story figcaption {
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-size: 13px;
  font-style: italic;
  color: var(--muted);
  margin-top: 7px;
  line-height: 1.4;
}
.story figcaption a {
  text-decoration: none;
}
.story figcaption a:hover {
  text-decoration: underline;
}
.story-content {
  padding: 20px 6px 0;
}
.visit-context {
  font-family: var(--sans);
  font-size: 10px;
  line-height: 1.5;
  letter-spacing: 0.12em;
  color: var(--accent);
  text-transform: uppercase;
  margin-bottom: 8px;
}
.story h2 {
  font-size: clamp(42px, 4.8vw, 70px);
  letter-spacing: -0.027em;
  line-height: 1.03;
  margin-bottom: 8px;
}
.story .subtitle {
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-style: italic;
  font-size: 24px;
  line-height: 1.2;
  margin-bottom: 16px;
}
.story .intro {
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-size: 20px;
  line-height: 1.48;
  max-width: 67ch;
}
.look-closely {
  margin: 22px 0 0;
  padding: 14px 0 18px;
  border-top: 1px solid #a5a290;
}
.look-closely h3 {
  font-family: var(--sans);
  font-size: 11px;
  letter-spacing: 0.14em;
  line-height: 1.4;
  margin-bottom: 6px;
  text-transform: uppercase;
}
.look-closely p {
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-size: 18px;
  line-height: 1.45;
  max-width: 60ch;
}
.story details {
  border-top: 1px solid var(--rule);
}
summary {
  cursor: pointer;
  list-style: none;
  display: flex;
  align-items: center;
  justify-content: space-between;
  gap: 15px;
  min-height: 49px;
  padding: 8px 0;
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-size: 19px;
  color: var(--accent);
}
summary::-webkit-details-marker {
  display: none;
}
summary::after {
  content: "+";
  font-family: var(--sans);
  font-size: 20px;
  font-weight: 400;
}
details[open] > summary::after {
  content: "−";
}
#history {
  padding: 6px 0 18px;
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-size: 18px;
  line-height: 1.6;
}
#history p + p {
  margin-top: 14px;
}
.credits-details summary {
  color: var(--muted);
  font-size: 14px;
  font-style: italic;
}
.credits-details summary::after {
  font-size: 15px;
}
#credits {
  font-size: 12px;
  color: var(--muted);
  padding: 5px 0 18px;
}
#credits ul {
  padding-left: 18px;
  margin: 4px 0 14px;
}
#credits li + li {
  margin-top: 5px;
}
#credits p {
  margin-top: 7px;
}
.story-pager {
  display: flex;
  justify-content: space-between;
  gap: 14px;
  border-top: 1px solid var(--rule);
  padding-top: 14px;
  margin-top: 10px;
}
.story-pager a {
  text-decoration: none;
  font-size: 11px;
  color: var(--muted);
}
.story-pager a:hover {
  color: var(--accent);
}
.story-pager span {
  display: block;
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-size: 17px;
  color: var(--ink);
}
.story-pager a:last-child {
  text-align: right;
}
.page-footer {
  border-top: 1px solid var(--rule);
  margin-top: 34px;
  padding-top: 16px;
  display: flex;
  justify-content: space-between;
  gap: 20px;
  color: var(--muted);
  font-size: 11px;
}
.page-footer p {
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-style: italic;
  font-size: 15px;
}
.page-footer a {
  display: flex;
  gap: 6px;
  align-items: center;
  text-decoration: none;
}
.page-footer a:hover {
  text-decoration: underline;
}
.page-footer svg {
  width: 18px;
  fill: none;
  stroke: currentColor;
  stroke-width: 1.2;
}
.mobile-toolbar {
  display: none;
}
.sr-only {
  position: absolute;
  width: 1px;
  height: 1px;
  padding: 0;
  margin: -1px;
  overflow: hidden;
  clip: rect(0, 0, 0, 0);
  white-space: nowrap;
  border: 0;
}
.skip-link {
  position: fixed;
  top: 8px;
  left: 16px;
  background: var(--paper);
  padding: 10px 18px;
  z-index: 10;
  transform: translateY(-160%);
}
.skip-link:focus {
  transform: none;
}
.noscript-notice {
  margin: 20px;
  padding: 20px;
  border: 1px solid var(--rule);
}
.explanation {
  margin-top: 22px;
  background: #eeece2;
  padding: 18px;
}
.explanation svg {
  width: 100%;
  height: auto;
}
.explanation figcaption {
  font-family: var(--sans);
  font-style: normal;
  font-size: 11px;
}
.image-unavailable {
  display: none;
}
.photo-placeholder {
  padding: 40px;
  border: 1px solid var(--rule);
  background: #eeece2;
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-size: 26px;
  color: var(--muted);
}
@keyframes trace-route {
  from {
    stroke-dashoffset: 1800;
  }
  to {
    stroke-dashoffset: 0;
  }
}
@media (min-width: 1100px) {
  .map-column {
    position: sticky;
    top: 20px;
  }
}
@media (max-width: 1100px) {
  .sheet {
    padding: 25px 27px 20px;
  }
  .masthead h1 {
    font-size: 59px;
  }
  .trip-dates {
    font-size: 17px;
  }
  .day-nav a {
    padding: 14px 12px;
  }
  .atlas {
    gap: 20px;
  }
  .story .intro {
    font-size: 18px;
  }
  .story .subtitle {
    font-size: 22px;
  }
  .stop-link {
    grid-template-columns: 20px 1fr;
  }
  .stop-time {
    grid-column: 2;
    text-align: left;
  }
  .day-summary,
  .stops {
    padding-left: 16px;
    padding-right: 16px;
  }
  .story-content {
    padding-top: 17px;
  }
}
@media (max-width: 760px) {
  .sheet {
    padding: 22px 20px 20px;
  }
  .masthead {
    display: block;
    padding-bottom: 18px;
  }
  .edition {
    font-size: 10px;
    letter-spacing: 0.15em;
    margin-bottom: 11px;
  }
  .masthead h1 {
    font-size: 46px;
    max-width: 480px;
    line-height: 1.05;
  }
  .trip-dates {
    font-family: var(--sans);
    font-size: 11px;
    text-align: left;
    display: flex;
    gap: 14px;
    margin-top: 14px;
    padding: 0;
  }
  .day-nav {
    gap: 6px;
    margin-bottom: 13px;
  }
  .day-nav a {
    font-size: 12px;
    padding: 12px 12px 10px;
  }
  .day-nav a:first-child {
    padding-left: 2px;
  }
  .mobile-toolbar {
    display: flex;
    align-items: center;
    gap: 0;
    margin-bottom: 18px;
  }
  .mobile-toolbar button {
    background: transparent;
    border: 1px solid var(--rule);
    min-height: 38px;
    padding: 5px 15px;
    color: var(--muted);
    font-size: 12px;
  }
  .mobile-toolbar button + button {
    border-left: 0;
  }
  .mobile-toolbar button[aria-pressed="true"] {
    background: #e8e6db;
    color: var(--ink);
  }
  .mobile-toolbar span {
    margin-left: auto;
    font-size: 11px;
    color: var(--muted);
    padding-left: 8px;
  }
  .atlas {
    display: flex;
    flex-direction: column;
    gap: 24px;
  }
  .map-column,
  .story {
    width: 100%;
  }
  .atlas[data-view="stories"] .map-surface {
    display: none;
  }
  .atlas[data-view="stories"] .map-column {
    order: 2;
  }
  .atlas[data-view="stories"] .map-note {
    display: none;
  }
  .atlas[data-view="map"] .story {
    display: none;
  }
  .map-surface > svg {
    min-height: 340px;
    aspect-ratio: 720/620;
  }
  .story-photo {
    aspect-ratio: 1.6;
  }
  .story-content {
    padding: 20px 0 0;
  }
  .story h2 {
    font-size: 52px;
  }
  .story .subtitle {
    font-size: 23px;
  }
  .story .intro {
    font-size: 20px;
    line-height: 1.5;
  }
  .look-closely p {
    font-size: 19px;
  }
  .look-closely {
    margin-top: 21px;
  }
  .visit-context {
    font-size: 9px;
  }
  .day-summary {
    border-top: 1px solid var(--rule);
  }
  .stop-link {
    grid-template-columns: 22px 1fr;
    font-size: 14px;
    padding: 12px 0;
  }
  .stop-time {
    font-size: 11px;
  }
  .day-summary h2 {
    font-size: 25px;
  }
  .day-summary p {
    font-size: 13px;
  }
  .page-footer {
    flex-direction: column;
    gap: 6px;
    margin-top: 28px;
  }
  .map-note {
    font-size: 9px;
  }
  .story-pager span {
    font-size: 17px;
  }
  .map-pin.quiet .place-label {
    font-size: 16px;
  }
  .map-pin .place-label {
    font-size: 18px;
  }
  .map-pin.selected .place-label,
  .map-pin.base .place-label {
    font-size: 22px;
  }
}
@media (max-width: 360px) {
  .sheet {
    padding: 18px 15px;
  }
  .masthead h1 {
    font-size: 40px;
  }
  .trip-dates {
    gap: 9px;
    font-size: 10px;
  }
  .mobile-toolbar span {
    font-size: 10px;
  }
  .story h2 {
    font-size: 46px;
  }
}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) {
  html {
    scroll-behavior: auto;
  }
  .trip-route {
    animation: none;
  }
  * {
    transition: none !important;
  }
}
@media print {
  .day-nav,
  .mobile-toolbar,
  .skip-link,
  .story-pager {
    display: none;
  }
  .sheet {
    padding: 0;
  }
  .atlas {
    display: block;
  }
  .map-column {
    position: static;
  }
  .story {
    margin-top: 25px;
  }
  .story details {
    display: block;
  }
  .page-footer {
    margin-top: 15px;
  }
  body {
    background: white;
  }
}